Defining Bespoke Tailoring

There are different texts available on the internet telling us the original meaning of the word “bespoke”. Today, we have no agreed method of construction of a bespoke suit and this actually poses an issue in defining “bespoke tailoring” in relation to “tailor made” and “custom made” etc. Now all these terms are used interchangeably in daily context or marketing to describe how the suits are manufactured. In menswear tailoring, especially referring to suit making in Savile Row, “bespoke” is clearly defined respectively to “made-to-measure”. Bespoke has to be personal and unique. A bespoke suit is cut from a pattern specifically for a particular client. On the contrary, made-to-measure means a suit developed through amending a standard pattern or block pattern to fit the contours and measurements of the individual. The focus on pattern development captures one of the aspects of bespoke tailoring. On the other hand, traditional tailoring includes heavy use of hand sewing, especially padding, to ensure the interlining is attached to the shell fabric through small stitches on the lapels. Bespoke therefore combines both developing an individual pattern and the suit made by sewing from the client’s choice of material. If both the pattern development and construction requirements are taken into account the definition of bespoke tailoring is highly restrictive.